Jan 13 2011

Famagusta

Othello Fortress
The fortress was built by Lusignans in14th century. Surrounded with a deep trench, this fortress is one of the main entries of Famagusta city. Under St. Mark lion relief hanging on the gate the name of captain Nicolo Foscari who reshaped the fortress and the date of 1492 can be seen. There are aisles in the fortress ending with towers and artillery batteries. It also has a dining hall and dormitories left by Lusignans. One section of the fortress courtyard contains cannons, iron cannonballs and stone cannonballs from Ottoman and Spanish. Current name of the fortress was started to be used in the British period. One part of Shakespeare’s infamous tragedy takes part in a harbor city of Cyprus. The antagonist of the play, Othello is known to be Moor. The author is believed to be influenced by the name of Christophora Moro who was the governor of the period.
Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque (St. Nicholas Cathedral)
Built between 1298 – 1312 in the Lusignan period, the building is one of the most beautiful structures of the entire Mediterranean world. Kings of Lusignan used to coronate as King of Cyprus at St. Sophia Cathedral in Nicosa at first and as King of Jerusalem at St. Nicholas Cathedral in Famagusta. Until it was turned into a mosque in 1571 these ceremonies were held. Architecture of the west facade of the cathedral is influenced by Reims Cathedral in France. It has a unique window with Gothic style decorations. 16th century Venetian gallery is located in the courtyard and used as fountain today. Venetian emblem can be seen on the circular windows at the entry. It is thought that the relief decorated with several animal figures comes from a temple in Salamis. The apse of the cathedral consists of three sections like in many Cyprus churches and in an eastern style. The upper windows are well preserved and there are two chapels on the west face and side. Historical sycamore tree in front of the building is a rare tropical fig variety found on north of the island.
Proveditore Palace
It is the royal palace built by Venetians on the ruins of the palace which was built by Lusignans in 13th century. The facade which is still intact was built in 16th century and columns found here were brought from Salamis ruins. There is an emblem of Venetian governor Giovanni Renier on the arch in the middle.
Namık Kemal Dungeon
The dungeon which is located in Proveditore Palace has two floors and was built from cut stone. Namık Kemal was imprisoned in this building for 38 months when he was banished to Cyprus in 1873 because of staging his play “Vatan Yahut Silistre”. Consisting of a single area, the lower floor has a door opening to the Proveditore Palace courtyard and a window with bars. Top section can be reached by a steep stone stairway and in this room with two windows, documents regarding Namık Kemal are exhibited.

St.Francis Church
Is a section of the monastery established in 1300s by monks who were members of Franciscan sect. It is located near Del Proveditore Palace. The structure was built with the assistance of king of Cyprus Henry II. It consists of a nave with three sections and a very beautiful chorus section at the end of it.

Greek St.George Church
Its architecture featuring Byzantine and Gothic essences the church was owned by Orthodox society and built in 15th century. The church includes a middle nave having side naves and ends with a triple apse. The ceiling has Gothic vaults. The structure of the building shows that it is a bishopric church. The top section was destroyed during the Ottoman siege in 1571 and cannonball signs can be seen on its walls.
Templar and Hospitaler Church
Templar church which is the largest of the two churches built in 14th century was owned by Templar knights. When Templar chivalry was abolished by the Pope in 1313 the church was left to Hospitaler knights who owned the adjacent building. Today it is renovated and utilized as Cyprus Art Society.
Walls of Famagusta
Lusignan walls surrounding Fagamusa city until 1489 had a very thin structure despite their height. Later, Venetians who took over Cyprus made a revision and brought experts from Venice in 1550s to reinforce the walls against weapons with fire power as a precaution especially for Ottomans. Especially walls on the seaside, Martinengo Bastion and Land Gate were built in this period. Also, a trench with a width of 46 m was built in front of the wall facing outside and filled with water. Built from large stone blocks and having a length of 3 km, the height of these walls were 18 m and width reaches up to 9 m at certain points. The walls contained bastions, gates, ramps, embrasures, armory, storehouse and barns. Towers on the walls were named as follows: – Arsenal (Canbulat) – Mare (Sea Gate Bastion) – Castella (Othello Tower) – Signonia (Halkalı embrasure) – Diamete (Karpaz Bastion) – Mozzo (Şehit Bastion) – Martinengo (Tophane) – Pulacazaro – Moratto – Diocare – Ravelin (Land Gate, Akkule) – Santa Napa (Golden Bastion) – Andurizzi (Water Bastion) – Campo Santa (Halkalı Bastion) and Othello building as an inner castle and Land Gate (Ravelin) and Sea Gate (Porta del Mare) as two original entry gates. Destroyed during conquest of Famagusta by Ottomans, the walls were repaired by Ottomans after the conquest.
Land Gate (Ravelin)
It is one of the city gates that provides access to Famagusta city. Its original name is Ravelin which means “Bastion in the shape of half moon”. Land Gate is the oldest section of the walls other than Othello Fortress. Today bridge entrance is new, in the past a cannon opening near the bastion was used to provide access inside. The original gate is located on the left of the current entrance and equipped with a moving bridge. There is a passage with arches at the section which faces the city. On both sides of this passage there are wall frescos, emblems and a small church. As a result of excavations carried out there passages, cannon platforms and interesting sections and galleries were discovered. On the side of the passage with arches, there are underground chambers which were used as dungeons during Venetian period.
Tophane (Martinengo Bastion)
Was built between 1550 – 1559 by Giovanni Sammichele who was a Venetian architect. It has a triangular design and is one of the most elegant examples of military architecture. In the sections with vaults there were chimneys for discharging gunpowder smoke and providing ventilation and small cells were present on the walls to place gunpowder barrels and cannonballs. Martinengo who was commanding the Venetian forces which were sent as reinforcement to Cyprus to fight against Ottomans was brought to Famagusta when he died on the route. Venetians give his name to this bastion in memory of this respected commander.
Sea Gate (Porta Del Mare)
Is one of the original city gates providing entrance to Famagusta. It is an architectural beauty and was preserved well. It was built by a Venetian named Nicolo Prioli in 1496. Wooden gate covered with iron remained from the era of Turks and iron bar gate remained from the era of Venetians. On the top of the gate emblem of Republic of Venice with a winged lion is engraved on marble, name and emblem of Nicolo Prioli and year of 1496 can be seen. The marble is believed to be brought from Salamis.
Canbulat (Arsenal Bastion)
Canbulat Bey who was Kilis flag officer was recommended to be included in the forces to be organized when conquest of Cyprus was decided. Since he played an important role in the Ottoman conquest of Nicosa, he was appointed with İskender Pasha and Deniz Pasha in the Ottoman army which was surrounding the city of Famagusta in 1570. He was believed to die a martyr at the point where Arsenal bastion was located and his tomb is under this bastion. The building aging by time was reconstructed in 1968 and the front part was turned into a museum. Ethnographical and archaeological works are still being exhibited in the museum.
Kertikli Bath House
It is an Ottoman era building located on the north of the city. This bath house attracts attention with its domes. The structure consists of six rooms top of which are covered with a dome, a water reservoir covered with vault and sections which were believed to be changing rooms with ruined top cover.
Salamis Ancient City
The city was established by tribes coming from Anatolia during migrations starting by the end of Bronze Age and Aka tribe coming from Greece and joining them in Cilicia. Tefkros who was one of the heroes of Troy and son of Salamis island king Telamon was known as the founder of the city. It was understood from the coins which were produced in BC 560 after Assyrian domination that occurred in BC 707 that king of Salamis, Evelthon came to power to govern the island. The campaign organized by Athenian Kimon in BC 499 to end Persian domination was a failure and Athenians gave up taking Cyprus upon death of Kimon. After that Phoenician governors take control, however regression starts in trade and other fields. Evagoras from Tefkros family takes the throne in the kingdom of Salamis in BC 411. When he attempted to take control of the entire island Salamis city as surrounded by Persians and Evagoras was made to pay levy to Persian Empire. This continued to until the period of Alexandria. Pyntagoras who was the king of Salamis during the reign of Alexandria was awarded with the city of Tamusus due to military support he gave to Alexandria. Upon death of Alexandria, rulers of Salamis changed continuously.
Peace was brought to the island when governed by Ptoleme Kingdom which took Cyprus under very difficult conditions in BC 294 and upon this date Salamis became the capital city. This bright period of the city continues during Roman reign too. Most of the remains coming up today belong to the Roman age. Under Roman control the city had comitia curiata, a senate and village council. The city was heavily destroyed by earthquakes in AD 76 and 77 and Jewish insurrection in AD 116. Later the island is connected to Antioch city and since Salamis harbor is the first port of call of Syrian vessels, the city finds relief. The city incurs significant damage due to earthquakes which occurred in AD 232 and 342. After that Byzantine Emperor Constantine rebuilds the city in a smaller plan and names it as Constantine. The city became the capital city of Cyprus by displacing Baf. Later the city was abandoned due to Arabic raids in AD 647 and earthquakes and the people had to migrate to the area which comprises the city of Famagusta today.
Architectural Remains:WALLS AND HARBORS
In addition to the walls located on north, south and west sides of the city presence of a secondary wall surrounding the city center was revealed. Walls surrounding the city centre can be thought to be built against Arabic raids in AD 7th century. The oldest harbor of Salamis city is located on southeast of the city. North and south of this harbor is protected with artificial jetties. The second harbor used in Late Roman period is located on the north of the city. In addition to these two harbors a third harbor used by Demetius is told to exist.
Gymnasium:SPORTS ARENA
As can be understood from the epigraph on the southern entrance, there was a Gymnasium dating back to Hellenistic period, located on the area where Roman Gymnasium was built on today. On the eastern portico, there is an epigraph stating that this area was once used as a garden. Due to destruction occurring because of earthquakes Gymnasium was repaired in the age of Augustus and a south portico was added. Area which is surrounded with chromite head column porticos on four sides has swimming pools on north and south ends and statues around them. Statues located around the northern swimming pool now are from AD 2nd century. Collapsing again in AD 332 and 342 due to earthquakes, Gymnasium was rebuilt by Constantine in the Early Byzantine period as Salamis bath houses.
THEATER
The structure which was located on the south of Gymnasium is possibly built in the period of Augustus. Collapsing due to earthquakes in AD 4th century, stones of the theater were used for building bath houses. Theater contained stage building, orchestra and seats. It has a capacity of 15 thousand people. Stage building was used by performers as a change room and served as background. What is only left from this glorious building decorated with frescos, statues and columns until not is only its foundation. In the middle of orchestra located in the center, an altar dedicated to Dionysus and two platforms with epigraphs dedicated to Marcus Avurelius Commedus and Caesar Constantine, and Caesar Maximianus. Although the seating section has more than 50 rows only a small part of them was able to survive until now. The space in the middle is honor loge. Some of the seating were renovated and rebuilt.
ROMAN VILLA
Was located on the south of the theater. Having two floors, this building consisted of an entrance with columns and internal courtyard and a large living room. Other rooms are located on both sides of the courtyard. During excavations a platform with mosaics and decorated with animal portrayals surrounding a central figure was discovered.
BYZANTINE WATER CISTERN
It was located on southeast of the Roman Villa, shaped like a funnel and consisted of three sections. In one section there were wall pictures and inscriptions from AD 6th century. Main panel which is currently in ruins is decorated with a water stage consisting of birds, fish and aqueous plant and a medallion with Jesus’ head embossed on.
COMPANAPETRA BASILICA
The basilica was built in 4th century. It was surrounded with columns and consists of a courtyard with a water well, middle and side sections. Desk of the bishop and place of priests are located in the middle section. At the back of the apse there is a group of remains which are understood to be the bath house. One of the rooms have a spectacular mosaic flooring.
ST. EPIPHANIOS BASILICA
Known as the biggest basilica of Cyprus, this building was used as Metropolitan church of Salamis in the past. It was known to be built during time of Bishop Epiphanios (368-403). Epiphanios also has a tomb made of marble stone. Basilica was divided into 3 separate sections with two column lines of fourteen. Seats of the bishop and priests were located on the apse. Rooms on both sides of this section were for priests to wear their cassocks and to keep the items used during service. Heating system installed under the floor level of the baptize room shows that warm water was used for baptize during winter months. Remains show that another smaller church was built on the southern part after Arabic invasion in 7th century.
WATER RESERVOIR – VOUTA
Dating back to AD 627-640 (Byzantian Period), water coming from Kythrea via channels was stored in this section. Today remains of the aqueduct can still be seen. It is seen that the feet bearing the ceiling are supported by thick bends coming out of tall walls.
AGORA (Stone Forum / Marketplace)
This structure is located on the south of the water reservoir. Consisting of an empty space in the middle and shops around it, this area is understood to the meeting and shopping center of Salamis. It is understood from a Latin book that it was renovated during the time of Augustus. Porticos with columns on both sides of Agora provided protection against sun and rain. Only one of these is still stands up.
TEMPLE OF ZEUS
Believed to be the main temple of Salamis city, only a small part of this structure was able to survive until now. Located on the south end of Agora, it was possible to reach the temple via a staircase. An epigraph discovered during excavations it is revealed that this temple was dedicated to Zeus Olympios in honor of Livia who was Augustus’ wife.
Royal Tombs
Salamis Necropolis situated on an area of approximately 4 square miles reach to west end of the Salamis forest and St. Barbanas from Enkomi. Since some of the tombs which were discovered had structural figures and rich items they were named as Royal tombs. Their principle architectural features are wide, long and inclined areas located in front of the sepulcher. There, horses drawing the funeral car were sacrificed in the honor of the deceased and pots filled with oil, wine or honey were placed here. Researches show that the tombs were built in BC 8th century and were used until AD 4th century. Rich items were found particularly in tombs numbered 47, 50 and 79. Tomb number 50 among them was also used as a small church dedicated to St. Catherine. Since it is believed that St. Catherine who adopted Christianity was imprisoned here by her uncle who is a governor of Salamis it is also referred to as St. Catherine Prison. In the excavations various pots, earthenware, bronze and ivory items and skeletons of the sacrificed horses were discovered.
Nicocreon Monument
Located in Salamis Necropolis, this monument is thought to be built for the last king of Salamis, Nicocreon. According to the resources, the last king Nicocreon committed suicide rather then surrendering to Ptolemeos and his wife killed her family and committed suicide. In the middle of the platform which can be accessed through gradual stairs a furnace was found together with iron bars, stone and earthen statues of that period. Statues which were made of half fired earth bear the characteristics of the Late Classical Greek sculpture.

Monastery of St. Barnabas
Born in Salamis as the son of a Jewish family, St. Barnabas came back to Cyprus after his education in Jerusalem and started to work with St. Paul in AD 45 to widespread Christianity. For these actions he was killed by his own people and his body was hidden in a marsh to be thrown in the sea. Scholars of St. Barbanas watched the happenings and bury the body in an underground cave on the west of Salamis and placed a copy of the gospel of St. Mathews on his chest. It had been a secret for long years since the location of the body was unknown. 432 years later bishop Anthemios stated that has seen the grave in his dream and requests to open it. When the grave was opened gospel of St. Mathews and St. Barnabas was revealed. After this exploration the bishop went to İstanbul and informed Emperor Zeno and Church of Cyprus became autonomous. The emperor made a donation to build a monastery on the area where the grave was found. The monastery was built in AD 477. The monastery consists of a church, courtyard and rooms located on three sides of the courtyard where the priests used to live.

St.Barnabas Icon and Archaeology Museum
A very rich collection of icons from 18th century were held at St. Barnabas church. Basalt mill located in the courtyard of the monastery was brought from Enkomi residential zone and other columns and stones were brought from Salamis. Rooms where the priests used to live were renovated and turned into an Archaeology museum. It is possible to see various items that belong to the historical process from Neolithic Period to Roman Period in Cyprus. Also, bronze and marble works are exhibited in the museum.
Enkomi (Alasia)
Ancient Enkomi city which is located near Enkomi (Tuzla) village and also known as Alasia, dates back to BC 2000s. In the excavations it is understood that the city was under Egyptian influence and later influenced by Miken. Surrounded with walls, in this residential zone dead used to be buried in the basement of their houses with their gifts. It was understood that Embrasure plan had been applied to the city design and the first writing came out here. “Horned God Statue” which was regarded as a cult sculpture and bearing the essences of Hittite culture was found here. Also numerous bronze works and copper residues were found indicating that there were coppersmith shops in the city. Being a harbor city in the past, Enkomi city was abandoned and never used again since Pedios (Kanlıdere) river filled the city harbor with alluvium and due to earthquakes and continuous threat of Aka tribe after 12th century.
Kantara Fortress
Being the farthest southern fortress among three fortresses on Kyrinea Mountain Range, located at the altitude of 700 meters, Kantara Fortress was capable of controlling entry to Karpaz Peninsula. It was believed to be built by Byzantine after Arabic raids such as St. Hilarion and Buffavento fortresses, written sources state the fortress for the first time in 1191 when Richard the Lionheart conquered Cyprus. Isaac Comnenus declaring himself as the king of Cyprus with deceit resorts to this fortress when he was defeated by the old Palestinian king Guy De Lusignan which entered Richard’s service. He was captured while attempting escape and taken prisoner in Karpaz region. Name of the fortress is stated in Lusignan and Venetian periods. Those periods were the time of numerous wars. The fortress was kept by the supporters of King Peter I despite Genoese invasion of Nicosia and Famagusta in 1373. Prince John who was the brother of King of Cyprus Peter I, is known to resort to the fortress while he was imprisoned by Genoese. The fortress was surrounded by walls by King James in 1391. When Venetians invaded the island this fortress was also demilitarized and lost its old significance like other fortresses away from the sea. The fortress has sections like defense, soldier rooms, water reservoir, wagon rooms, signal tower.
Sinan Pasha Mosque (St. Peter & St. Paul Church)
Although this building is thought to be built in 1360 by a Syrian tradesman Simone Nostrano as stated on the inscription of its wall, it is known that the church was built by a Nestorian Christian named Simon and the inscription is thought to be false. It was able to withstand the bombardment in 1571 with its strong structure. Northern entrance with a unique stonework was thought to be brought from somewhere else. Interior of the building is rather simple and its ceiling consists of flat head columns. Ottomans started to use the building as a mosque during their reign on the island.
Nestorian Church
This church was built in 1339 by a Syrian tradesman for Syrians who were living in Famagusta. The church is decorated with figures of camels and inscriptions in Syrian as the language used by Nestorians in religious ceremonies. Bell tower and side sections were added afterwards. The entrance is very simple and a beautiful rose window is located on it. Ceiling with a terrace is supported by decorated bends.
Latin St. George Church
It was built by the end of 13th century and is one of the most beautiful examples of Gothic style. It is thought that materials brought from Salamis ruins were used and its architecture was influenced by St. Chapelle church in Paris. It has a nave with five sections and also has a place of chorus. This chorus place and north wall was able to survive until now. Wide and tall windows were used to be decorated with Gothic engraving once upon a time. It is understood from its wall alike structure that the church was built before the walls of the city.

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